My Solitary Travel Dessert 1: Side Trip to Gyeonggi Province in South Korea

I specifically chose Seoul, Jeju and Busan as my three major stops of my 10-day-solitary travel in South Korea - 4 days in Seoul (3 days from arrival and one last day before departure), 3 days in Jeju and another 3 days in Busan.  These major stops were basically my main entry and exit points to the nearby provinces and to the main places of accommodation. 

Having side trips to the nearby provinces in Seoul, Jeju and Busan were like a dessert while I fulfilled my 10-day-solitary travel in South Korea.  I wanted to to see more of the country, experience the provincial buses (or what they call as the express bus) and for specific reasons that I thought prior to the trip.

Seoul was my first major stop for the main reason that I'm familiar with the place having been there in Year 2010 and for me to get a feel of the city again, and the weather of course.  It was my way of unveiling the very thought of my first solitary travel - that should have sinked in to my inner core - my mind and soul and should not think of anything else but only this trip!  I've prepared for this for the last 9 months and I was more than prepared to DO IT and fulfill that DREAM!

I spent the first day just going around Seoul to places that I haven't seen yet and to the same old places that I'd gone to already. It was a good warm-up  as I prepared for my trip to the nearby province the next day - Paju,  Gyeonggi-do.

Gyeonggi Province is the nearest province surrounding the Capital Seoul, located North West of South Korea and can be reached from the City Capital via 2-hour bus trip.  Its political history originated from the time Korea was divided into three nations during the period of Three Kingdoms and eventually as a separate government from Seoul after their liberation from Japanese colony and the foundation of two Korean goverments.  Some parts of Gyeonggi Province are geographically and politically part of the Capital Seoul while the northernmost part, Gaesong, became part of the North Korean territory after the countries were divided following the 38th Parallel. 

Soldiers on their morning routine along the main road of Paju in Gyeonggi-do

This is precisely the reason why I saw some Korean soldiers in the area when I arrived in Paju.  Technically, I was already near the DMZ (De-Militarized Zone) that separates South and North Korea (at the time of my travel, the tension was such a media fuss that presence of Civil Defense boxes are physically everywhere in the public places such as subways and terminals) but didn't have any thought of including it in my itinerary.  What's the use of being in the place just to witness two soldiers facing across each other between just a thin line of border with nothing but hatred in their eyes. It could be too hard for me and I just wanted all the positiveness in my trip.  After all, it's more for myself. :-)

I originally planned to spend the whole day in Paju to hop on and off at Paju Premium Outlet, English Village,  Heyri Village, Province Village (European style buildings) and Lotte Premium Outlet.  But after realizing that reaching Heyri Village alone will take 2-3 hours from Seoul, I decided to spend the first half of the day in Heyri and the rest of the afternoon back in Seoul mainly in Insadong.

Heyri Art Village was constructed by Korean artists to house their artwork.  There are residences, art galleries and museum within the vicinity.  I personally described it as Haven of Coffee Shops in South Korea.  It was my first to see a "Coffee Museum", I'd say only in Korea, where various artsy, themed-coffee shops can be found.  Accidentally, I found the place to get my inspiration for a concept of the coffee shop/bed and breakfast-type that I plan to put up five years from now.



various themed coffeeshops in Heyri Art Village

I arrived at Heyri Art Village in Paju from Hapjeong Station in Seoul at ten in the morning with travel time of approx. 2.5 hours.  From Seoul, I travelled with the working locals who got off the bus in different stops that seemed like commercial and business districts. It was new to me as I thought the business districts only reside in Seoul.

Along the way, I attentively listened to the bus stop announcements.  Unfortunately, it was in Korean and I thought of picking up key words like Paju. Without a map on hand and only my personalized travel guide, I relied to my instinct and some guts to ask the remaining passengers on the bus.  Fortunately, after the bus driver announced the bus stop, I saw the "Heyri Art Village" signage from afar and unlike the other day where I missed to push the Stop button, this time, I pressed it.

the drop off and the empty highway

The place was so quiet and the weather was much colder.  As I entered the main gate, I thought I was going to a subdivision still under construction.   Constructions were everywhere and there was a lone tourist like me geared with a tripod in one hand and camera on the other.  What's there to see?  The location map in a large board was not of a help neither - its written in Korean.  My face lit up when I saw a coffee shop nearby.  I had the time to connect to wi-fi (Korea seemed like a Wifi country) and made a quick research of Heyri Art Village. 

one of the many artsy structures in Heyri Art Village

I continued walking around, just anywhere my footsteps led me.   After some time, I saw some people in the area which seemed like tourists like me (with their travel brochures on hand).   I continued going around and saw many structures of different shapes and designs.  Indeed, the architectural piece of art of the Koreans can be found there.

 
I continued going around looking for one place - Artinus Farmer's Table.  This is the location of the K-drama Boys Over Flowers, set-up as Shinhwa High School posh cafeteria.  There's a fancy restaurant on the ground floor and sort of a bookstore on the second floor.  After looking around for some minutes, I checked my watch and it was nearing lunch time already.  I decided to finish my own tour in Heyri Art Village and walked towards Gate 2 to exit.  

The place was still quite, just like when I arrived.   But I brought with me a lot of solitary memories - the intricate and charming feel of Cafe Rose, the artistic designs of shops and art galleries, a newly learned concept of coffee museum, a lot of themes as an inspiration for my own coffee shop in the future and of course, visiting another K-drama location.

That first attempt to travel outside Seoul gave me a bunch of confidence that I can explore more of South Korea on my own.  On my 3N/4D in Jeju Island, I took more bunch of courage to find my way and took a side trip to Udo Island and experienced going around the island by driving an ATV.

And finally, when I was in Busan, I took a morning trip to Chanwoon Province and glimpsed at the early signs of Spring in Jinhae.

Travel Tips:

Getting to Paju City

- Take Bus 2200 from Hapjeong Station Exit 2.  The bus will go through the following route and its corresponding bus stop:
Bus Stop 8. Lotte Premium Outlet - new premium outlet in Paju (est. 60 mins from Hapjeong)
Bus Stop 11. Province Village - Europe style buildings (est. 70mins from Hapjeong)
Bus Stop 12. Heyri Art Village Gate 1 (est. 80mins from Hapjeong)
- In going back to Seoul, cross the main road opposite Heyri Art Village Gate 1 towards the flower shop.  That is the bus stop to Seoul.

- Use T-money to pay, it's convenient.


Helpful Links:

Visit Korea
Getting to English Village

Busan: More Than Just A City Tour Bus

My first experience of a tour bus in Busan just proved me right that there's not much of fun for a traveller like me to wander around a place in a tour bus - it's boring, it puts limit to MY curiosity and most of all, it makes ME a prisoner of time (as I have to hop on/off every 30mins).  One good point is the built-in video tour that sort of providing information about the place - can be amazing with its high technology media visuals but at times I found it boring as well.  

Note that I'm speaking for my preferred way of going around the place but nevertheless, Busan City Tour is a tourist-friendly and the most convenient (the right description I may say) to see Busan in a day.

Amidst the fact that I literally tour around Busan through Hauendae Loop where I described this part of Busan as a place where sophistication of the corporate districts and shopping malls collide with the serenity and calmness of the sea,  AND,  Taejongdae Loop  that depicts the ordinary daily life of local folks while preserving their culture and heritage -

I felt I did not wander Busan as it deserves for its worth.  

Nothing can stop me from exploring Busan on my own - my usual way, that is, riding the subways and taking public buses; not even the stinging coldness of early Spring and my deteriorating energy and aching body from literally going around South Korea for the last seven days.

So on the following day and technically my last full day in Busan, I purposely squeezed a quick side trip to the province of Jinhae  in the morning just to take a glimpse of Spring - an impulsiveness that I just thought on my first day in Busan because of the blooming arrays of Cherry Blossoms trees along the streets of Busan, I thought there could be more in Jinhae.  And then spent the rest of the day exploring Busan via subway and public buses.

On the spot itinerary while riding the bus from Jinhae to Busan

On my way back to Busan, I wrote down on the Subway Map the places that I'd see and took notes of the exits:
1. Shinsegae Department Store
2. Namcheon Cathedral
3. BIFF Square
4. Yongdusan Park
5. Taejongdae Beach

Named as the Guinness World Records' Largest Department Store,  I found myself facing the fear of heights for the first time when I entered Shinsegae  Centum City.  It's ironic as I already tried the 800m zipline in Bukidnon, Philippines but not scared of it.  Prominently standing with 14 floors, I did not dare to look down as I was going up to the 8th floor.  It was a bit scary that I only stopped at 8th floor where the Fashion Street is located, then went down at 4th floor spent most of my time at H&M shop.  I stopped myself from splurging on shopping so I strictly spent only an hour in the mall. 

Shinsegae Centum City



Next stop is Namcheon Cathedral which is also known as the Archdiocese of Pusan.   In every places that I chose to explore in South Korea, I always searched for a Catholic Church where I can pay visit and thank God for guiding me safely throughout my journey.  I read from my research that Namcheon Cathedral has it's unique architectural and interior design, uncommon for the usual Catholic Church.

Namcheon Cathedral

Following the directions, from Centum City, I got off in Namcheon Station and walked towards Exit 2.  There I gasped some air as I looked up at the highest stairways I've ever seen in South Korea's subways.  The light that came from the top were like a beam of strenght that told me to keep going as I was on the right direction.

From the subway exit, I kept on following the street signs, turning left until I saw this sign:

 Jesus Loves You

It was heartwarming feeling that I felt a pinch in my skin  - goosebumps!  It has always been amazing how I am always guided while looking for the church.  I had experienced the same in Beijing while looking for St. John's Church in Wanfujing on a Palm Sunday.

Still unsure if that was the church, I opened the gate and walked further until I saw the uniquely angular-designed structure with KBS stations as it's backdrop.  From my view, it looked like a lego puzzle piece attached to its perpendicular stand.

As I walked towards the entrance, I noticed the door is closed and seemed like the mass was going on and I was not sure if I can still enter.  I decided to wait for the mass to finish and went around the vicinity.  At the side of the church is a garden with a grotto and mini-chapel with stoned benches along the pathway.  I took my seat at the front of the grotto and uttered my prayer.

As I waited, I looked in awe at the angular wall designed with stained glass in squares from the bottom to the top. The rays of sunlight strikes against it that make it looked like skylight roof creating a beam light that resembles the star when Christ is born. 

After more than 30 minutes, I heard people coming out of the door.  I then went inside.  It was more beautiful in there!  The light that I imagined outside creating the beam of light are actually providing the natural light.  The spaces without the pillars are illuminating as if providing a spotlight to the altar.

It was so serene with some old folks gathering inside.  I found my little space where I said my thanksgiving prayers.  I was about to end my first solitary travel and I was blessed to have this dream fulfilled.

As the sun sets and so with my trip to Busan, I went on and took the subway to Jagalchi Station.  In my list was to walk around the BIFF Square or famously known as the Pusan International Film Festival that hosted for several years since it was inaugurated many international film festivals.

More than just an establishment, the BIFF Square served as the lifetime memorabilia of the handprints of the actresses and actors. It is lively from day to night with its street market and variety of stores in every blocks.  Anyone will enjoy just looking at various trinkets sold along the streets while munching some streetfood that are usually part of the scene in every K-dramas.

At some time, I joined the locals as they enjoy their  food on the streets.  The more people falling in line in a food stall, the more it was enticing to take a bite.  But as the daylight went off, so with my body from being too tired, I decided to call it a day.  That means, I have the reason to come again with my List of To Dos and Places to See that are not completely off yet of my bucketlist - to walk along the trail of Yongdusan Park, seafood dining at Jagalchi Market, splurge on best buys at Nampo-dong Underground Shopping and stay for a night and experience public bath (jjimjilbang) at Haeundae Spa.  

Nonetheless, the on the spot itinerary on my last day in Busan made my solitary travel more fulfilling.

Travel Tips:

Getting to the places via subway:

Shinsegae Department Store (Line 206 Centum City Station Exit 1, 5 minute walk)
Namcheon Cathedral (Line 211 Namcheon Station, Exit 2 by taking the long stairs and keep walking and turn left at the intersection.  It's beside the KBS Building
BIFF Square (Line110 Jagalchi Station Exit 7, 5 minute walk)
Jagalchi Market (Line 110 Jagalchi Station Exit 1o, 5minute walk)
Yongdusan Park (Line 111 Nampodong Exit 1, 10min walk and then take the escalator)

* Take the One-Day Subway Pass for a unlimited rides during the day of purchase for only KRW4,000.00

A Glimpse of Busan on A Tour Bus (Part 2)

A glimpse of something means to capture or take a peak at once but I realized I cannot just write about Busan City Tour in one post. So I made a Part 2 for Taejongdae Loop Tour while Part 1 is for Haeundae Loop Tour.

I described my first tour bus experience through the Haeundae Loop Tour as having seen Busan's side where the sophisticated corporate scent and emerald seascape of the beautiful beaches met in the other half of the largest port in South Korea.  Taejongdae is different. 

It is discovering the outskirts of Busan, the loop that go around the southermost of the city - a glimpse of the normal weekday of the locals, listening to how the oldies talk and I somehow acknowledged the difference in their accent from the Seoulites, more fantastic ocean views, and seeing the reasons why this is called the largest port in South Korea.

After a quick nap and somehow regained a doze of energy, I walked back to the departure point of the City Tour Bus to catch the 4PM tour.  This time I decided just to remain onboard the bus and contented looking at the sights from the window.  I didn't want to keep on looking at my watch for the 30-minute interval.  Furthermore, I read that the tourist spots require more walking time and I might not able to complete the whole loop tour. 

So for this post, I am posting more pictures as I completed the 1 hour and 40 minutes loop tour just inside the bus and without getting off.

First stop is the Passenger Ferry Terminal. Busan is the entry and exit point not only within the boundaries of South Korea like Jeju Island but also to the other parts of the world like Japan.

Second stop is National Maritime Museum of Korea (International Cruise Terminal).  This is the most distinct structure in the form of a ship.  Busan offers international cruises and that makes the place romantic as well.

the only national maritime museum in Korea with open-air performance hall

Third stop was the highlight of the tour - Taejongdae.  I was itching to get off the bus because of the audio visuals played on the tv monitor in front of me.  This is famous for its observatory and lighthouse overlooking the sea even as far as Japan's Tsushima island.

Next stop is the 75 Square.  I would have loved to get off again when I saw the audio visuals where there's a trail going down the sea.  It would really fun to take that trail and enjoy the view of the sea.  And this is one of the many reasons why I would like to go back to Busan again.

Next stop is the Songdo Beach where people flocked for the late afternoon walk.  It was more crowded than Haeundae Beach.

We then crossed over Namhang Bridge and reached BIFF Square and Jagalchi Market.  These are both famous for the international film festival and the fish market where you can eat what you ordered to be served.  It was not enough for me to just see it from afar so I decided to see the BIFF Square on my own the next day.  I spared the Jagalchi Market though as it was hard for me to eat alone in the fish market.

Going around Busan via Taejongdae Tour is like watching a 30-minute-travel documentary where you can only see a bit and pieces of the place.  Being a certified DIY traveler, I am looking forward to explore Busan more but at my own pace where I can really know the place - its culture, its history and what experience and memories it can offer.  The next day, for just half the day, I explored Busan via Busan Subway.  It was more fulfilling!

Here are some of the pictures that I took from the tour bus.

A Glimpse of Busan on A Tour Bus (Part 1)

I'm not a fan of a tour bus neither a package tour. It limits my random travel plans at that very moment, my impulsiveness to just change my destination. It makes me bounded with time. And my attention is messed up with checking my watch from time to time rather than enjoying the place.  But in some circumstances like being in a place for just a day or two, taking a tour bus is the most feasible and convenient way to take a peak of the place.

My Busan City Tour Bus Ticket good for two loop tours - Haeundae and Taejongdae Tour

On the last major stop of my 10-day-solitary travel in South Korea with only two days to stay in Busan with scheduled side trip to Changwon Province (literally having a day to stay in Busan), I decided to take the City Bus Tour instead.

Busan is named as South Korea's second largest metropolis after Seoul and the largest port in South Korea.  It hosted Asian Games and FIFA World Cup in Year 2002 and APEC in 2005.  Every year, it offers venue for the International Film Awards, worldly known as PIFF (Pusan International Film Festival).

Busan City Tour Bus offers two tours - Loop Tour and Themed Tours.  Loop Tour is a hop-on/hop-off service that offers Haeundae Tour and Taejongdae Tour with the same tour duration of 1 hour and 40 minutes and 30-minute-intervals at every stop. It basically touring the Metropolitan City of Busan into two parts.  Themed Tours,on the other hand, offers specific tour on anyone's preference - History and Culture Tour, Haedong Yonggunsa Temple Tour, Eulsukdo Eco Tour and Night Views Tour. 

The Busan City Tour Loop Tour

With my stamina getting low from the cold weather and not having enough sleep and tiredness from the full-packed itinerary for the last 7 days in Seoul and Jeju with side trips to provinces in between, I chose the Loop Tour instead.  As much as I want to experience the Night View Tour, I thought I couldn't bear the coldness of the late winter more at night as I've hardly bear it during the day.

There are three types of tour buses - open-top bus, double decker bus and ordinary bus.  Depends on the schedule, it's a luck if you happen to take the open-top bus, but at that late winter weather, I thought it's more lucky to take the double decker bus.  And I was lucky! I took the double decker bus as my first Busan City Tour Bus.

The Double Decker Tour Bus

 At 12:oo noon, after I deposited my luggages at Pusan Inn Motel before the 2PM allowable check-in, I took a short walk towards Arirang Hotel at Busan Station Square, the departure point of the City Bus Tour.  I took the Haeundae Tour first for one main reason that it has a stop at Shinsegae Department Store, Guinness World Record of the largest department store in the world. 

 After paying KRW10,000 for the hop-on/hop-off loop tour, I boarded the bus. I was the first one and chose the first row so I had the best view to take photos.  It's not airconditioned (of course) but spaciously comfortable to just take a look of Busan in just two hours.  The pre-recorded tour is in English and each seat has its own monitor where you can freely browse the places and learn a bit about it - eating is not allowed but at least a mobile web service if you have Korea simcard is good enough as an additional perk. As efficient as the passengers buses in South Korea, the tour bus left Busan Station exactly as scheduled with only me and  two Japanese tourists (mother and daughter) on board .


Inside the Tour Bus

 Haeundae Tour starts at 9:30AM in Busan Station and the whole day tour ends at the same place at 6:40PM. We were on the main streets of Busan for about 10 minutes before the first stop.  Of course, the leave-less trees, pre-empting Spring lined along the streets, the less number of high rise buildings, presence of container vans make Busan exudes provincial feel.

Then, the pre-recorded tourist guide in the bus plays the visuals for the first stop, Busan Museum.  I settled with that and did not mind of getting off the bus.  When nobody from the three of us went down to get off the bus, the tour continued. 

In the next 5 minutes, the tour bus passed through the streets taking a few turns until it reached the main road along the harbour with the sights of the beach.  I was getting sleepy already and the sight of the beach woke me up! I looked at my bus tour brochure. Next stop was Gwangalli Beach. This time I thought of getting off the bus and explore the beach but thought of asking the driver first about the time he can stay.  He told me for two minutes.

I quickly got off the bus for a quick glance of the beach.  There's a few people around and not so many things to see so I settled to take a photo and hurriedly board the bus again.  (This is what I hate about tour bus). 

The view from the tour bus - with Gwangan Bridge

The view that made my heart alive at that moment!

Gwangalli Beach

The bus moved on to the next stop - Nurimaru APEC House.  It was intentionally built for the 2005 APEC Summit Conference and considered as one of the tourist attractions in the city after the historical event.  The place is densed with pine trees overlooking Hauendae Beach and the beautiful landscape around Gwangan Bridge.  

Nurimaru APEC House (photo from www.visitkorea.org)

Around that moment, the high-rise buildings, exquisitely sophisticated architectures and uniquely designed infrastructures that I can only see in person in Singapore and KL and only seen in magazines and internet  reveal the hidden and fierce beauty of Busan.   It left me in awe and wonder how it is to work in Busan where I can work in a corporate world while enjoying the perks of beaches and the charming provincial feel.  This is where having two personalities can both fit in.

I did not get off the bus when it stopped with the next stop in mind - Haeundae Beach.

Proclaimed as Busan No. 1 Beach, Haeundae boasts a magnificient seascape, the best subject for panoramic shot.  It has long stretch of coastline beautified with the backdrop at both ends - the skyscrapers buildings and residences that colorfully covered the island.

The beach is fine sandy, best for playing around in the sand and not for swimming though at that winter.  I guess it's crowded during summer.  I maximized the 30-minute interval in the beach.  I enjoyed watching families, with parents  running after their kids who ran after seagulls  in the sand.  I felt envy though watching couples standing near the water holding hands together.  The place is a bit romantic for such a chilly afternoon weather.

Haeundae Beach also houses the famous attractions in Busan such as Busan Aquarium which is named as the largest aquarium in Korea.  The 1Km long sandy beach is also filled with luxurious hotels and restaurants.



the couple by the beach

After a quick but a bit unsatisfied thirty minutes in the beach, I went back to the city tour bus stop and waited for the next tour bus.  I haven't had much of my time yet but had to keep going.  It was already past 1Pm and I had wanted to check-in and took my much needed nap.  ( I woke up as early as 5AM and took the 6AM bus to Jeju Airport for my 9AM flight to Busan.)

The tour bus arrived at the expected time.  This time, it's an ordinary bus (not double decker or open-top) with more tourists on board. It stopped in Haeundae Station, then at Shinsegae Department Store and Busan Museum of Art (Bexco).  Though I wanted to see the largest department store in the world, my tiredness and sleepiness ruled over me.  So I just stayed onboard and decided to finish the tour on board.

Then, the tour bus crossed over the Diamond Bridge named as "Gwangan Bridge" which I personally described as the gem of Busan as it offers the great view of Busan during the day and fascinates with its spectacular lights at night.  I had the beautiful sights of Busan from the bridge. It was so beautiful that I told myself I should return and see more of Busan.

The last tourist spot is UN Memorial Cemetery.  It serves as final resting place of the UN soldiers during the Korean War.

My Haeundae Loop Tour ended in Busan Station at around 3PM.  It was a quick three-hour-tour of the other half of Busan - it's place where sophistication of the corporate districts and shopping malls and serenity and calmness of the beaches collide.  This loop tour is the the city-ness in Busan.

Hurriedly, I walked past the Busan Station Park Sqaure towards Pusan Motel Inn where I checked-in and took a quick rest before I continued my next tour - Taejongdae Loop Tour.

Tour Duration and Time Calendar of Haeundae Loop Tour: